Ankara in 2 days: Republican history and Anatolian archaeology

Atatürk's mausoleum, a building on Rasattepe that reflects the grandeur of modern Turkish architecture. Inside, the Atatürk and War of Independence Museum holds Atatürk's personal belongings and gifts, panoramas of Gallipoli, Sakarya and the Great Offensive, galleries on the War of Independence and the reforms, and Atatürk's private library of 3,123 books. Because it closes early in winter, starting the day here first thing in the morning makes the visit easier. Visit with the quiet, respectful manner the site calls for.

The architect Vedat Tek designed the building in 1923 as a meeting place for the Republican People's Party; when the first parliament building proved too small, it was converted and entered service as the parliament on 18 October 1924. The assembly sat here for 36 years, until 27 May 1960. Built in the First National Architecture style, it stands on the same boulevard as the first parliament building, so you can see two periods of the Republic one after the other.

The first parliament building, from which the War of Independence was directed; if open, it is the emotional heart of the Ulus day. Construction began in 1916 as a club for the Committee of Union and Progress, designed by the foundations architect Salim Bey and built by the military architect İsmail Hasif Bey. The ministry portal shows the museum as closed while the provincial directorate's page has no closure note, so this stop is included only if it is open. If it is closed, or it is a Monday, spend the time at the Roman Baths or bring the Ethnography Museum forward from day two.

After lunch in Ulus, walk to the site that shows Ankara's Roman identity as Ancyra over the widest area. According to GoTürkiye, the baths were built in the 3rd century by Emperor Caracalla in honour of Asclepius, god of health. The roughly 65,000 m² of remains became an open-air museum after work in 1997–2001, and about 1,000 stone pieces (grave stelae, inscriptions and architectural fragments) are displayed in three groups.

About 15 metres tall, with a Corinthian capital and fluted shaft, the Column of Julian has no inscription; it is generally thought to honour Emperor Julian's (361–363) visit to Ankara, and a stork's nest often sits on top. A little further on, the tomb and mosque of Hacı Bayram-ı Veli (1352–1430), the Ankara-born scholar, poet and Sufi, lean on the walls of the temple named after the Roman emperor Augustus. A Roman temple standing beside a tomb and mosque shows the city's layered history at a glance. See the temple from outside and respect prayer times.

South of Ankara Castle, in two Ottoman buildings, the Mahmutpaşa Bedesten and the Kurşunlu Han, the museum tells the story of Anatolian archaeology in chronological sections and won the European Museum of the Year award in 1997. The upper hall shows works from the Palaeolithic to the Urartians. The Ankara Hall and the Classical Hall on the lower level are closed for maintenance from 14 September 2026 to 2 March 2027, so during this period focus your visit on the upper hall.

The castle's exact date is unknown: it existed in Galatian times, the Romans repaired it, the Byzantines built the inner walls in the 7th century, and the Seljuks took the area two years after Manzikert and enlarged the castle. It has an inner and an outer citadel, with restored Ottoman houses inside now used as restaurants and shops. Look out from the city's high point over Ulus and Republican Ankara, and have lunch inside the citadel. Right next to it, the Aslanhane (Ahi Şerafettin) Mosque was built in 1290 under the Anatolian Seljuks and is among the oldest mosques still standing in Türkiye; it takes its name from the ancient marble lion set into the wall of the tomb opposite.

GoTürkiye's Ankara route and the ministry museum page both suggest pairing the castle with this museum. Its collection on the history of transport, industry and communications opens a window onto another era after the morning's archaeology. The museum is closed on Mondays; on that day, spend the time at the Ahi Elvan Mosque in Koyunpazarı and on a longer walk along the walls.

Described by GoTürkiye as the Republic's first museum, the building went up in 1925–1926 and opened on 18 July 1930. From 21 November 1938 to 10 November 1953 its entrance hall served as Atatürk's temporary tomb; after the transfer to Anıtkabir it reopened on 18 May 1956. That link completes the story that began at Anıtkabir yesterday morning.

Between Ulus and Sıhhiye, Hamamönü was renewed through careful urban planning and won the European Tourist Destination of Excellence award in 2011. Its historic Ankara houses and streets, shops selling handmade goods, art street and open-air cinema make a calm evening to close the two-day plan. Have dinner in these streets.