Athens in 3 days: the Acropolis, the Ancient Agora and Lycabettus

The rock that symbolises Athens brings the masterpieces of Classical Greek architecture together on a single hill. The Parthenon, the Propylaia, the Erechtheion and the Temple of Athena Nike were built in the second half of the 5th century BC, in the age of Pericles. The rock rises about 150 metres above sea level, and the Caryatids, the female figures standing in for columns on the Erechtheion's south porch, are the most photographed detail. Going up at opening time lets you see it before the crowds build.

The Dionysiou Areopagitou pedestrian street that comes down from the Acropolis brings you straight to the museum's door. The museum shows the finds from the Acropolis right at the foot of the rock, and the excavation beneath the building is included in the same ticket. Coming here after the Acropolis lets you study up close what you saw on the hill. The pedestrian street linking the museum and the monuments has also made the surrounding Makrygianni–Koukaki district one of the city's most popular areas.

After lunch, head into Plaka at the foot of the Acropolis. The district runs from Filomousson Square to Monastiraki and keeps the oldest street pattern in Athens. Higher up, right under the rock, Anafiotika was built by workers from the island of Anafi, and its whitewashed houses and narrow steps feel like an island village. Your route also passes the Lysicrates Monument in a small square ringed by cafés. Anafiotika is still a lived-in neighbourhood, so keep your voice down and do not gather in front of people's doors.

The Agora, the political and commercial heart of ancient Athens, was founded in the 6th century BC. The Stoa of Attalos, built by a king of Pergamon, now serves as a museum for the finds from the site. On the hill, the Hephaisteion, popularly called the Theseion, is a Doric temple from the 5th century BC. The Altar of the Twelve Gods was the point from which distances from Athens were measured in antiquity. Seeing the Acropolis from below, from the Agora, rounds off yesterday's visit.

Walk along Adrianou Street to Monastiraki Square. The square and the streets around it are packed with shops, and the metro station is right here. Nearby, the Roman Agora and the Tower of the Winds are seen from outside, along the fence, in this programme; on a busy day it is an easy way to read the city's layers at a glance.

Walk along Ermou Street to Syntagma Square in front of the Parliament building. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the building was unveiled on Greek Independence Day in 1932. Two guards from the Evzone unit stand watch, and the guard is changed in a formal ceremony. At the big ceremony on Sunday morning, the whole Presidential Guard marches to the memorial with a band.

Skirt the edge of the National Garden and walk to the Olympieion. The largest ancient temple on the Greek mainland measured about 100 by 50 metres; work began in the 6th century BC and was finished only under the Roman emperor Hadrian. Fifteen of its 104 columns still stand and one lies on the ground, letting you see the temple's scale up close. Afterwards, pass Hadrian's Arch on your way to the stadium.

The last stop of the day is the Panathenaic Stadium, also known as Kallimarmaro. Lycurgus had it built in the 4th century BC, and in Roman times Herodes Atticus rebuilt it with marble tiers. The first modern Olympic Games were held here in 1896, and today it is the finish line of the Athens Marathon. Sitting on the tiers and looking out over the track is a good way to rest at the end of a full day.

Athens' great archaeology museum, with its many galleries, easily fills a morning. Construction began in 1866 to a design by Ludwig Lange and was completed by Ernst Ziller in 1889; the exhibition space covers about 8,000 square metres. After two days at the ancient sites, this is your chance to look at the objects up close. Rather than trying to see every gallery, focusing on a few sections that interest you makes the visit more enjoyable.

After lunch, cross to Kolonaki at the foot of Lycabettus. With its shops and cafés, the district makes a good break for shopping and a rest. This is the most open part of the programme: browse the shop windows, sit in a café and rest, or drift slowly uphill towards the summit.

Finish the programme above the city on Lycabettus Hill. At 277 metres it is one of the highest viewpoints in greater Athens, with a wide panorama over the city. You can go up by funicular or on foot by paths and steps. Watching the sunset beside the Church of Agios Georgios at the summit closes your three days high above the city.