Ayvalık and Cunda in 2 days: Taksiyarhis, olive oil and island lanes

Begin in central Ayvalık at the Taksiyarhis Monument Museum in the İsmetpaşa quarter. According to the Ministry of Culture and Tourism, this was Ayvalık's first church and it went through three phases: it was built as a small church in the 15th century, and in its second phase took on a three-domed, two-storey basilica plan. The fresco above the bema showing Paul and Peter offering the building to God, and the 1753 inscription above the south entrance, date from that phase. GoTürkiye adds that the church was rebuilt in the neoclassical style in 1844, served for a long time as a tobacco warehouse in the Republican era, and opened as a monument museum in 2013 after the Ministry's restoration. Look for the local garlic stone on the façade, the marble work inside and the Bible scenes on the ceilings; thanks to its acoustics the building also hosts concerts.

Walk from the museum into the historic streets. GoTürkiye lists Saatli Mosque, Çınarlı Mosque, Hamidiye Mosque and Hayrettin Pasha Mosque among Ayvalık's places of worship; a short walk linking them through narrow lanes lined with stone houses is a good way to understand the town's fabric. Around the bazaar you will notice shops selling olive oil and olive-oil products; Ayvalık olive oil is a registered designation of origin. If you are here on a Thursday, you can also see the market held in the Fevzipaşa–Vehbibey quarter.

Before lunch, head to the Ayvalık Rahmi M. Koç Museum in the Sakarya quarter. It is an industrial history museum set in a historic olive-oil factory; seeing the town's relationship with olive oil inside a factory building lets you read the shops in the bazaar you walked through in a different way. Since you will visit the second branch on Cunda the next day, ask about the combined ticket covering both museums.

Stay in the centre for lunch. GoTürkiye names Ayvalık olive oil and Ayvalık toast among the standout flavours of Balıkesir's cuisine, and vegetable and wild-herb dishes cooked in olive oil are part of the same tradition. A light lunch leaves room for a long afternoon before the evening sunset.

End the day at Şeytan Sofrası. According to GoTürkiye, this is an old lava cone rising above the Çamlık forest camp; its flat top resembles the region's low, round floor table, which gives it its name ('the devil's table'). Locals call a rock print protected by an iron cage 'the devil's footprint'. The summit opens onto a wide view of the Ayvalık islands and pine-fringed coves, and at sunset the silhouettes of the islands stand out. You can spend the afternoon freely on the coast and drive up here towards evening.

On the second day, cross the bridge to Cunda, also called Alibey Island. According to GoTürkiye, Cunda was Turkey's first island linked to the mainland by a bridge, built in 1964. Your first stop on the island is the Cunda Rahmi M. Koç Museum in the Namık Kemal quarter. It was created by converting a church built of garlic stone into a museum; GoTürkiye refers to it as the Taksiyarhis Church Museum. It is a separate building from the Taksiyarhis Monument Museum you visited in the town centre yesterday. The same institution also runs the Sevim and Necdet Kent Library on the island.

After the museum, wander the island's cobbled lanes. GoTürkiye lists the stone houses draped in bougainvillea and the waterfront Taş Kahve among Cunda's landmarks. The island is part of the Ayvalık Islands Nature Park. A market is held on the island on Saturdays, but this route does not depend on it and works on any day.

Climb from the lanes to Aşıklar Tepesi, Lovers' Hill. According to GoTürkiye, a historic windmill stands on the hilltop. From here the view takes in the island's rooftops, the harbour and Ayvalık across the water; you can pick out the museum and the bridge you passed in the morning.

Head down to the waterfront for lunch. GoTürkiye associates Cunda with papalina, wild-herb dishes cooked in olive oil and mastic-flavoured treats. The waterfront restaurants serve seafood alongside olive-oil dishes. Spend the rest of the afternoon freely by the sea before heading back.