Budget-friendly Istanbul: 3 days of ferries, pavilions and free art

At Eminönü, board the T5 Eminönü–Alibeyköy tram and ride along the Golden Horn to the Balat stop. The line strings together Fener, Balat and Ayvansaray, neighbourhoods that sit outside the city's postcard routes. Once off the tram, walk slowly uphill: rows of houses with coloured facades, corner coffee houses and neighbourhood grocers are calmer early in the morning. Wander between Fener and Balat without hurrying, then ride the same line on to the Eyüpsultan Teleferik stop.

Location: 41.03404, 28.94807

From the Eyüpsultan Teleferik stop, walk to the courtyard of Eyüp Sultan Mosque. The mosque stands at the centre of the Eyüp district; the courtyard, fountains and nearby tombs are busy with visitors all day. This is a working mosque, not a museum: check prayer times before going in and keep your voice down in the courtyard. Then follow the streets behind the mosque down to the shore and the Eyüp ferry pier.

Location: 41.04801, 28.93374

From the Eyüp pier, catch one of the midday sailings on the Beşiktaş–Haliç line and get off at Hasköy, the stop after Sütlüce. On the short crossing you see the Golden Horn from below its bridges, past old shipyard shores and between the neighbourhoods on both banks. It is a simple way to watch the inlet from the water on the city's everyday ferry, with no tour boat needed.

Location: 41.04725, 28.93780

A short walk from Hasköy pier brings you to Aynalıkavak Pavilion. This Ottoman pavilion, part of the National Palaces, is visited today as the Aynalıkavak Music Museum; instead of the crowds of the big palace routes you get a quiet garden on the Golden Horn and a building on a small scale. Take your time in the rooms, then rest in the garden. Have lunch along the Hasköy shore and spend time by the water until the evening ferry.

Location: 41.03805, 28.95495

When the evening sailings start, board the same line's ferry from Hasköy towards Karaköy. On the way back you see the Golden Horn from the other direction, this time towards sunset; after Kasımpaşa the ferry docks at Karaköy pier beside the Galata Bridge. Stay on the Karaköy waterfront for dinner: in the harbour districts, balık ekmek, a sandwich of grilled fish with tomato and onion, is sold by vendors around the piers.

Location: 41.04055, 28.94906

Start the day at Pera Museum on Meşrutiyet Avenue. At this private museum in Tepebaşı, check the website for what is on before you go; the programme changes over the year. Take your time between floors; the galleries are calmer in the morning. On the way out, walk from Tepebaşı towards Dolapdere.

Location: 41.03180, 28.97520

Arter in Dolapdere is a new-generation art institution showing contemporary art in large galleries, a clear contrast with the previous day's historic route. The exhibition ticket covers every gallery; working from the top floor down makes it easier not to lose your way. The library, bookshop, bistro and the exhibition in Galeri 0 need no ticket. After lunch, walk to İstiklal Avenue.

Location: 41.04090, 28.97876

SALT Beyoğlu on İstiklal Avenue, with its exhibition spaces, open-air cinema and winter garden, is a free place to pause in the middle of the street. Exhibitions change; walk between the floors and see what is on at the time. It is also a good place to step away from the busy avenue for a while. Afterwards, walk via Şişhane and Galata down to Bankalar Avenue in Karaköy.

SALT Galata on Bankalar Avenue houses research spaces and the Ottoman Bank Museum alongside its exhibition and workshop spaces. It sits among the avenue's historic bank buildings; inside, look through the exhibitions and the archive-led programme. It is the last stop of the day, so there is time to linger in the bookshop or café. Karaköy pier is a few minutes' walk away.

Location: 41.02380, 28.97346

At Karaköy pier, board the ferry to Kadıköy. On the crossing you see the skyline of the historic peninsula and the mouth of the Bosphorus in the evening light, with gulls following the boat to the Asian side. In Kadıköy, walk up into the market area: the fish market in this harbour district also sells honey and cheese next to the fresh fish, and the surrounding streets have places for dinner.

Location: 41.02181, 28.97384

Start the day on the ferry from Kadıköy pier to Üsküdar. The short crossing follows the Asian shore; at this hour the ferry is how many Istanbul residents get to work and school. When you step out onto the Üsküdar pier square, the mosque's dome is right in front of you.

Mihrimah Sultan Mosque, right across from Üsküdar pier, opens the Asian-side day the moment you step off the ferry. See the building first from the square on the pier side, then go in if it is outside prayer times. The square is less crowded in the morning. After your visit, return to the pier on the same square; the Aşiyan ferry leaves from here.

Location: 41.02682, 29.01597

The ferry from Üsküdar to Aşiyan crosses to the European shore of the Bosphorus and heads north along the coast. Waterside mansions, wooded slopes and the bridge follow one another on the way; instead of a sightseeing cruise you see the middle stretch of the Bosphorus on the city's regular ferry. Get off at Aşiyan pier and wait for the ring-line ferry.

Location: 41.02726, 29.01498

The Aşiyan–Anadolu Hisarı–Küçüksu ring line runs every day and crosses the narrowest stretch of the Bosphorus from shore to shore. On the short trip you see the Rumeli and Anadolu fortresses from the water. From Küçüksu pier, the pavilion is a few minutes' walk.

Location: 41.08114, 29.05486

Küçüksu Pavilion, where the Göksu stream meets the Bosphorus, is, in the National Palaces' words, a 'riding pavilion' used mainly for resting and hunting; set against the scale of the great palaces in the main itinerary, it shows Bosphorus palace architecture up close and in a quiet setting. After the rooms, go down to the shore and take your lunch break by the water. The picnic grounds around the pavilion have their own ticket.

Location: 41.07841, 29.06488

On the way back, take the ring line to Aşiyan and change there to the Üsküdar ferry. In the afternoon there are weekday ferries from Aşiyan to Üsküdar at 15:45 and 16:50, so you may wait a few minutes at Aşiyan pier to change. Back in Üsküdar, spend the evening on the waterfront or take the ferry on to Kadıköy.

Location: 41.07962, 29.06539