Tirana in 2 days: Skanderbeg Square, Bunk'Art and Dajti

Tirana's central square took its present form in a 2017 redesign that won the European Prize for Urban Public Space and London Design Museum's Design of the Year for architecture in 2018. It is paved with natural stone gathered from every region of Albania. The National History Museum, the Opera and Ballet Theatre, the National Library and the city hall stand around it; look at the museum's mosaic façade from the square.

Work on the Et'hem Bey Mosque on the square began at the end of the 18th century and was finished in the early 19th. It is known for its Ottoman architecture and rare frescoes of landscapes, flowers and oriental buildings, and it is open to visitors. The stone Clock Tower beside it was built in the early 19th century and has been one of the city's landmarks for more than two centuries.

Set in a nuclear-proof bunker built in the late 1980s, the museum traces the role of the Interior Ministry, the surveillance system and the internal security apparatus, along with political persecution, internal exile and the prison system, in chronological order. Being underground, it works well on a rainy day.

The castle goes back to the walled residence and seat of government built by the Toptani family in the 17th century, and much of its wall still stands. Inside the walls today are restored buildings, traditional restaurants, craft shops and exhibition spaces; stop here for lunch.

Built in 1988, the Pyramid has gone through several uses and, after an extensive rebuild, became a contemporary culture and technology centre for young people. It stands near Dëshmorët e Kombit Boulevard.

One of the capital's largest green spaces, the park is known as the city's green lung, with paths for walking, running and cycling. Stroll around the lake to balance out the busy day.

The covered market at the heart of this recently renovated old bazaar sells fruit, vegetables, spices and traditional Albanian products, surrounded by cafés, restaurants, craft workshops and souvenir shops. AKT's Tirana food route also starts here.

Housed in the building that served as the State Security Service's main listening centre under the communist regime, the museum uses original bugging devices, documents, archive files and audiovisual material to show how the surveillance system worked and how it affected private life.

Take the blue Porcelan bus from beside the Clock Tower to the cable car's lower station; there is a short uphill walk from the last stop. Ride up Mount Dajti and have lunch at the top, where there is also an adventure park and mini golf.

Behind the cable car's lower station, Bunk'Art 1 was built as a huge nuclear bunker under the regime. With its long corridors and command rooms, it is now a history and art museum whose pavilions cover Albania's political and military history from 1939 to the end of communism.

Spend the last evening around Pazari i Ri or inside Tirana Castle with Albanian classics such as fërgesë and tavë kosi.